California Today: What Tahoe Looks Like Right Now

A dispatch from the Caldor fire, which is threatening large swaths of this tourist destination and
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By Thomas Fuller

San Francisco Bureau Chief, National

It's Tuesday. Thousands of people in Lake Tahoe were ordered to evacuate on Monday because of the fast-moving Caldor fire, leaving the tourist destination unusually quiet.

Traffic was at a standstill near South Lake Tahoe on Monday with people evacuating as the Caldor fire approached.Noah Berger/Associated Press

SOUTH LAKE TAHOE — Sometimes you can't help but reach for a cliché: South Lake Tahoe on Monday evening was the calm before the storm. After a frenzied mandatory evacuation that forced thousands to flee, the town went eerily still.

Everything was closed. Supermarket parking lots were empty; restaurants and motels were deserted. A man evacuating by bicycle, clothing piled high behind his seat, pedaled past. The roads felt wider without any traffic.

On the last days of August, Lake Tahoe would normally be thick with tourists paddleboarding, fishing, lounging, drinking and hiking.

"You'll never see South Lake Tahoe like this again," a resident told me before closing his car door and driving down an empty road toward Nevada.

The mandatory evacuation zone created by the fast-moving Caldor fire extended from Tahoma, Calif., on the western shore of the lake, to the Nevada border as of Monday evening.

And yet a 10-minute drive away there was urgency in the air as hundreds of firefighters fought to save Lake Tahoe. The Caldor fire, which ignited two weeks ago, crested a ridge on Monday and, propelled by strong winds, began descending into the well-populated Tahoe basin.

The fire was 15 percent contained on Monday, although that number hardly seemed to matter as the fire bore down on South Lake Tahoe.

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Less than a dozen miles from the lakeshore, inmate fire crews bounded down mountainsides to put out spot fires. The switchbacks leading to Echo Summit, the 7,482-foot pass that leads to the Gold Rush towns along the American River, were covered with the yellow-jacketed men and women of Cal Fire. They squinted up at the mountain and the fire descending it.

I drove between these two places on Monday evening, between the quiet town and fiery hillside, and I had trouble processing the contrast.

It was almost as if South Lake Tahoe was taking a deep breath on Monday night, steeling itself for a battle with the fire that seemed determined to knock at its gates.

Until Monday, the Caldor fire had burned up and down remote Sierra hillsides, brushing past tiny Gold Rush hamlets. More than 480 homes have been destroyed in the fire's path, many of them vacation cabins.

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But what comes next for the Caldor fire is a terrifying prospect of an entirely different magnitude. With the fire now in the Tahoe Basin, Cal Fire estimates that 33,679 homes are threatened.

After a strangely beautiful sunset on Monday, a family of ducks floated past an empty white-sand beach in South Lake Tahoe. They seemed oblivious as the air became heavy with smoke — and a town awaited its fate.

For more:

Thomas Fuller is the San Francisco bureau chief for The New York Times.

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SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
  • San Diego families: Six families from the suburb of El Cajon have made it safely out of Afghanistan after they went to the country this summer to visit relatives and got stuck, officials said on Monday. The whereabouts of two other El Cajon families remains unclear, The Associated Press reports.
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Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times

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Where we're traveling

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Your recall questions answered

Can I write in a replacement candidate?
You can, but if it's Gavin Newsom, it won't count. California law prohibits the incumbent from being listed in a recall as a replacement candidate.
Your write-in vote also will not count unless your preferred write-in candidate is on the state's certified list of write-in candidates.

Read answers to more of your frequently asked questions about the California recall election.

Tell us what else you want to know about the recall. Email your questions to CAtoday@nytimes.com.

And before you go, some good news

A World War II veteran celebrating his 96th birthday in Torrance on Saturday was surprised by a visit from all five of his children.

"It's just so wonderful," the nonagenarian, David Botelho, told The Los Angeles Daily News. "It's so rare I get to see them all together."

Thanks for reading. We'll be back tomorrow in your inbox tomorrow.

P.S. Here's today's Mini Crossword, and a clue: Big industry in San Francisco (4 letters).

Soumya Karlamangla, Briana Scalia and Mariel Wamsley contributed to California Today. You can reach the team at CAtoday@nytimes.com.

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